Although you might not recognize Cathy A Smith’s name, you’ve probably seen her work as a costume designer in TV and movies. She was nominated for an Oscar for the film “Dances with Wolves” and went on to win an Emmy for “Son of the Morning Star”, the story of Custer & Crazy Horse. The Hollywood industry knows if they want authentic costumes, they call this talented artist, costume designer and historian. She has contributed to over thirty five “Westerns” and was recently inducted into the Cowgirl Hall of Fame Museum.
You clearly found a special niche and career. Can you recall how this started for you?
I grew up on an old cattle ranch in Western South Dakota. My Grandpa, Alfred Beug, cowboy’d on the last of the big herds on the Cheyenne River Reservation. Later he raised remounts for the Cavalry at Ft. Meade until 1946 and I grew up riding those old mares. I loved listening to his stories and learned about cowboys from him.
I had a curiosity about how to make things from the viewpoint of survival. I learned to run a trap line, tanned ermine, sewed buckskin and built a tipi. These early beginnings became an invaluable skill for later in my life.
When did your passion for the Indian culture begin?
I became interested in the stories of my Lakota neighbors. I visited the Pine Ridge and Cheyenne River Sioux Reservations and was adopted by Kenneth Young Bear and his family. The “adoption” is done through the Hunka Ceremony and is when a person can take on a relative, so Kenneth took me as his daughter. This ceremony is very sacred and means a spiritual tie closer than blood.
Kenneth Young Bear was one of the last old-time Medicine Men, and was a Sun Dance leader and healer and taught me the ways. Darlene Young Bear taught me the Lakota women’s ways including Porcupine Quillwork – an almost extinct tradition.
How did you learn costume design – and especially this niche?
It took the first 25 years of my life to learn! I would save all my money so that once a year I could travel to a major museum. I would make an appointment with them to stay one week to 10 days and examine all of their Indian and Cowboy collections.
Now, for my work in TV and film, I have learned a short cut technique so I can make every costume in 10 weeks.
How did it feel to be inducted into The Cowgirl Hall of Fame Museum?
A total surprise! I’m excited to install a museum quality show for them by creating the regalia of 12 important Plains Indian Chiefs. Everything is made in the manner and with the same materials with which they were originally created.
What is next for you?
I give lectures on the art & culture of the American West at Museums and events worldwide. Part of my historic Cowgirl collection is on exhibit in the New Mexico History Museum, where I frequently lecture on the Trappings of the Cowboy & Cowgirl.
I understand when you are not involved in TV & film, you have your own art studio?
I have a working studio in Nambe, New Mexico where I make all the costumes for Western movies, but when I’m not working on costumes I create beaded and quilled artifacts for collectors, and oil paintings of the west.
For more information or to contact Cathy A Smith www.cathyasmith.com
